Monday, October 12, 2009

Goat Camp Trail, White Tanks Mountains (Phoenix)


The White Tanks Mountains lie to the west of Phoenix in the Valley of the Sun. Being thankful for a federal holiday due to the "discovering" of America by Columbus I headed to the mountains in order to discover more of Arizona. The Goat Camp Trail in its entirety is 6.4 miles long one way but there is a white tank at 2.25 miles and a convenient turnaround point for a shorter hike. The first mile and a half is fairly flat but the trail is quite rocky in several sections so hiking boots are advised. Just past the first 1.5 miles the trail ascends 1200 feet in less than a mile.

One of the parks "white tanks" is at the top of the climb. The tanks are formed by flash floods that have occured over several millennia. The water pours down the canyons and drops over ledges carving out tanks that expose the white granite. The return trip is a fun downhill romp and there are great views to the east where downtown Phoenix can be seen from time to time. The entire 4.5 mile round-trip can be easy accomplished in 2 hours. I have hiked this trail numerous times and have never encountered more than a handful of other hikers on any occasion.
Equipment used:
Merrell hiking boots
Mid weight hiking socks
Shorts
T-shirt
Camelbak
Camera
Clif Mojo Mountain Mix bar (yum)

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta 2009


I don't believe the pioneers of manned balloon flight that first lifted off from Annonay, France in the late eighteenth century ever imagined pigs, cacti, or spaceships sharing the same airspace but I witnessed all of the above in the skies over New Mexico this morning. What an incredible sight it was during a "Dawn Patrol" launch. Hundreds of special shape and classic shape balloons filled the Balloon Park then just after sunrise they rose up and drifted away.

It never occurred to me how casual a ballooning event would be. The Albuquerque Balloon Park is a very well developed venue for the massive annual event that sees hundreds of balloons launching in dozens of events the first part of October every year. The park hosts a large museum dedicated to all things hot air. Beyond the museum is a nicely paved concourse that allows for all of the vendors and stages to be accessible without getting muddy feet should there be in-climate weather. Below the concourse are terraced grassy fields that serve as launch pads for the balloons. What I found casual was that spectators are allowed access to the launch fields and are free to roam around and mingle with the crews that launch and fly the balloons.

The balloons are amazing. The special shapes are quite incredible and definitely captivated the spectators.





For a great adventure in the Albuquerque area reserve a few days early in October next year to check out the 2010 Balloon Fiesta. You'll probably see a few things you never imagined would be possible.


Pigs were seen flying.



Cacti too.



Even a spaceship.

Monday, October 5, 2009

Texas BBQ in New Mexico

I have enjoyed great Bar-B-Que in Memphis, the Carolinas and throughout the U.S. but there is nothing like Texas BBQ (no, I'm not from the Lone Star State either.) Avoiding corporate restaurants at all costs I always prefer family owned restaurants over the chain variety. But sometimes a franchise gets it right and with Rudy's its not just right, it's perfect! This regional chain of BBQ joints is limited to 27 locations in three states (Texas, Oklahoma & New Mexico) with roots that go back to 1889. It's the real deal and Albuquerque is blessed with two Rudy's locations. I have been to this particular eatery a few times in addition to one in El Paso and have never been remotely disappointed. The self serve line is complimented with a relish bar (pickles, onions, jalapenos) and drink station. Picnic tables and concrete floors complete the raw style that Texas is famous for when it comes to great BBQ. The oak wood smoldering in the pit grabs ahold of your nostrils when you open your door in the parking lot. Two hours later my shirt still smells like I was sitting next to a campfire. I've enjoyed jalapeno sausage, brisket and baby backs on previous visits so this time I went with the pulled pork. The half pound serving was enough to make two nice sized sandwiches with the four slices of white bread that came on the side. The pork was very moist and sauce free. I loaded it up with sliced onions and Rudy's spicy sauce and enjoyed every ounce as I washed it down with sweet tea. I always order the green chili stew and this time was no exception. The Land of Enchantment is known for their chilies and combined with smoked meat and potatoes the stew is simply sublime. Not much of a desert person I am always a sucker for good pecan pie. Pricey at $3.99 I indulged myself anyway and oh! what a pie. At first it tastes like a good southern pecan pie. After it settles on your palette a slight hint of chocolate surfaces but does not overwhelm. Whenever your adventure leads you to Albuquerque (or any other Rudy's locale) make it a point to feast on some great Texas Bar-B-Que.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Kaibab Camper Village

Just a few minutes from the Jacob Lake Inn south on 67 is Kaibab Camper Village. We had decided upon this particular campground because it is the closest to the North Rim with full hookups for RVs. Although it is still another 45 miles to the park entrance we do enjoy having electric and water when we use the travel trailer. Not a bad campground, very quiet and plenty of shade. A word of caution however, there were a few complaints on their website about vault toilets, the staff even made me aware that the facilities were limited to vault toilets when I checked in. I was sufficiently mentally prepared and replied that I was aware of the situation. I have been to countless national and state parks and scores of them have vault toilets that are environment friendly and nearly as good as the toilet at home. The next morning I was to discover why folks had complained. Their vault toilets are the same port-a-potties found at construction sites across the country. Three feet below lies the, well you know where I'm going with this. If Kaibab Camper Village would update their website and state that they have port-a-potties they might not get any bad reviews. But if they upgraded to real vault toilets they'd have many more happy campers.
Specifics:
Pull-thru and back-in (both unpaved)
Water, electric & septic hookups
Pay showers
Port-a-potty toilets
Fires permitted only in common area (center of park)
Small store
5 minutes from Jacob Lake store & gas station
45 miles/minutes from GC National Park (North Rim)

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Wahweap Campground at Lake Powell in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

Lake Powell in September is perfect for camping and the campsites at Wahweap Campground are top notch. We camped in "D" loop which is closest to the lake and were fortunate enough to have a campsite with unobstructed views of the water. In this particular loop all of the sites are pull-through, paved and level. They are equipped with a grill, a separate fire ring and a very nice picnic table. The bathrooms were very clean with sinks and flush toilets. The store is about a quarter mile away from this particular loop and it is very well equipped. Groceries, firewood, beverages and Lake Powell souviners are plentiful and the showers and laundromat are connected to the store. The washers and dryers are Maytag brand and in very good condition. The showers are coin operated and for $2.00 I ended up turning the water off before it ran out. One of the marinas is across the road from the campground along with a boat launch. The Utah border is steps away and just beyond the state line is an area called The Coves. Three loops provide parking spaces and are a exceptional spot to get out and explore the coastline or jump off a cliff and get wet!

Everything about the Wahweap Campground was exceptional from the clean facilities and lakeside views to the full hookups and star filled skies. September temperatures were near 90 during the day and in the lower 70s at night and we will certainly heading back for more RVing and water fun in the future!
Specifics:
Pull-thru & back-in sites
Electric, water & septic hookups
Picnic table, fire ring & separate grill
Clean bathrooms
Clean pay showers (at the store)
Laundromat (at the store)
Well equipped store

North Rim Campground, Grand Canyon National Park


Although there are no hookups at the North Rim Campground its close proximity to the edge of the GC easily makes up for the lack of RV park amenities. The sites are all paved and pull through with a fire ring and picnic table. The campground store is very well equipped with groceries, beverages, camping supplies, firewood, GC souvenirs and a coffee shop. Near the entrance of the campground is a dump station and a fresh water spicket for filling RV storage tanks. There are ample restroom facilities throughout the campground with flush toilets and sinks, the one by our site was kept very clean. Also available are pay showers that for $1.50 you get about 6 minutes of great water pressure and water as hot or cool as you care for. Generators are allowed at the sites with quiet hours begin at 8:00 pm and everyone complied during our stay. We did not hear any disturbing noises from other campers and completely enjoyed our visit. There are 2 trails connecting the campground with the Grand Canyon Lodge. The Transept Trail hugs the rim along the way to the lodge and is an excellent place to view sunset from the campground. The Bridal Trail is much more manicured and considerable flatter than the Transept. Both are about 1.5 miles from the lodge. When backpacking I never expect any sort of amenities where I camp but when I'm in the travel trailer I usually go for the locations with full hookups. With the North Rim literally steps from this campground providing stunning sunset views who cares about whether or not you can use your microwave oven?
Specifics:
Pull-thru sites
No hookups (potable water at dump station)
Picnic table & fire ring w/ attached grill
Clean bathrooms
Clean pay showers
Very well equipped store

GORE-TEX or not?

Living in the desert and doing the vast majority of my hiking in the southwestern United States I decided to save a couple dollars on my last pair of boots and forego the GORE-TEX. I bought the Merrell Moab Ventilator and have been completely satisfied. Trekking in the desert usual means water is not a concern on the trail, until my most recent hike. My daughter and her fiance were in town from Virginia and before were drove up to the North Rim Dustin needed to pick up new hiking boots. He bought the Merrell Moab GORE-TEX as I had mentioned how much I loved my Moabs. Heading down the North Kaibab Trail all was well. When we arrived at Roaring Springs the water beckoned and as we hiked around the lower falls both of us got our boots wet but only mine soaked through to the socks. During lunch I let my boots and socks dry in the sun but they were still damp when I headed back up the trail. About a mile later I felt a blister welling under my big toe but immediately removed the boot and wrapped said toe in duct tape averting the aforementioned blister. Back at the trail head my boots were lightly caked in red dirt while Dustin's merely had a dusting. Remarkable difference. Same boot major difference made by GORE-TEX. Next pair of boots I buy will definitely be the waterproof model.

North Kaibab Trail to Roaring Springs

Located on the North Rim or Grand Canyon National Park with an altitude of 8250 at the trail head caution is advised. Anytime hiking over the edge into the abyss proper preparation pays dividends ten-fold. This day hike should not be undertaken carelessly but the rewards are stunning views, a terrific trail much less populated than those on the other rim and a refreshing dip in the springs.
September 10th my soon to be son-in-law and I left the North Rim Campground and parked at the trail head about a mile away. Paved and equipped with a couple toilets the parking lot is more than adequate. The sky was overcast and a light drizzle had us stoked for an excellent hike. Heavily forested with ponderosa pine, aspen and fir trees to the Coconino Overlook, the path seems to be much more like a trail carved in the Rockies but the red rock vistas serve as a reminder that the return trip will not be as enjoyable.

The overlook is 3/4 of a mile from the Rim and is doable for for most folks of average fitness. Don't go further if you have not adequately prepared for Grand Canyon trekking. From here the flora begins to change and upon arrival at the Supai Tunnel the deciduous forest is but a distant memory. There is a water spicket and outhouses on the north side of the tunnel as well as some large rocks arranged for lounging. Two miles from the Rim there are still 3 more descending miles to the springs.

Soon after departing from the tunnel The Bridge in the Redwall appears off in the distance beyond a slew of switchbacks and lies just over half way to the springs.

Just past the bridge the trails ascends for several yards and it is a welcomed feeling in the legs to use different muscle groups. Descending goes hard on the calves whereas climbing burns the quads and lungs. Along the trail there are a few signs describing the various rock formations and one that speaks of the fauna found on this side of the canyon. The most fragrant signs of animals however are the 2 or 3 spots along the trail that the mules have declared as their group dumping grounds. The trail is muddy in these spots from the buckets of urine deposited by the beasts of burden. Its not that bad though, just take a deep breath and walk around. The path winds past hundred foot walls to one side with hundred foot drop-offs on the other then on through red, mauve and green layers and suddenly you can hear the springs definitely roaring but still over a mile away. A few bends later and the springs come into view and then a fork in the trail, left to the springs and right to Cottonwood Campground.

The springs flow from several spots in the rock wall creating a few streams and waterfalls. The outhouse and picnic tables are near a stream that has undoubtedly been damned by hikers to form small pools in order to cool off in after a long day on the trail. Dustin and I pulled off our socks and boots and slipped our feet into the cool clear water. Soon after we were completely submerged and literally chillin just off the North Kaibab Trail. After a quick lunch we headed back up the trail with 5 miles done and 5 more to go. Shortly after passing back across the bridge we caught a glimpse of a man and woman (mid thirties) hiking in the same direction. The woman was using trekking poles and I was cursing myself for the stupid decision not to bring mine this time. We finally caught up to them at the tunnel and found out that they had started on the South Rim the previous day and lodged at Phantom Ranch. They had intended on making a day hike up the North Kaibab and return to the river but did not fully anticipate how strenuous the hike would become. Fortunately they had made reservations at the Grand Canyon Lodge as a contingency plan and were extremely grateful when we gave them a lift from the trail head to the lodge as another 2 miles separate one from the other.
The hike was 10 miles round trip and, including an hour for a leisurely lunch and soak in the frigid spring water, we took 6 hours from start to finish. We had our Camelbaks full of water and carried Clif Bars and Clif Shot Bloks along with a couple PB&Js for lunch. Dustin drained his 2 liter reservoir but refilled at the tunnel on the way back up. My 3 liter was sufficient for the entire trip. The temperature was in the 60s at the trail head and 80s at the springs. By the time we got back up to the truck the temperature was in the upper 50s. The trail was shaded from the sun for the majority of the day but there was a remarkable temperature difference when we were in full exposure.
Recommendations:
Don't attempt hiking to the springs and back if you are not a seasoned hiker.
Carry a packable poncho or rain jacket just in case.
Bring snacks and water.
Small first aid kit (I used duct tape to prevent a blister this trip)
Enjoy the trail and tread lightly!

Saturday, August 29, 2009

North Rim, Grand Canyon


As the multitudes gathered on the South Rim inside Grand Canyon National Park we sat in complete solitude taking in the magnificence of the great chasm at our feet. The rustic bench crafted by park service employees sat just off the Transept Trail and was all ours to enjoy the breathtaking beauty laid out before us. No matter where you view the canyon from it is a bewildering sight to say the least. The views from the south are spectacular but the throngs of tourists, bumper to bumper traffic and shuttle buses moving the hoards from point to point can get on your nerves rather quickly. To see the Grand Canyon sans extreme tourism and at much more appreciated summer temperatures the extra mileage is definately worth getting of the well trodden South Rim paths and venturing to the North.
From Phoenix it is a 5 1/2 hour drive (towing a travel trailer) to Jacob Lake, Arizona. Highway 89 leads north out of Flagstaff cutting through the Navajo Reservation as it rounds the eastern edge of the canyon. After mile upon mile of desolate landscape and the occasional mobile home or Hogan that sparsely populate the remoteness of the reservation suddenly the Vermilion Cliffs rise from the desert floor breaking up a monotone panorama. Turning west on 89A the drive comes to life as you pass over Marble Canyon and take in the Colorado River. Just past the canyon named by Major Powell the exit to Lees Ferry would take you to the white water rafting embarkation capital of the world. On up 89A roadside pit stops could also be made at either Cliff Dwellers, House Rock Valley and a historical marker or two but by this time the horizon dictates a sharp rise into the heavily forested North Rim country. Climbing up from the high desert floor the temperature drops and the windows are finally opened. Jacob Lake Inn was a curiosity stop on our itinerary due to their website proclamation of scrumptious baked goods. No false advertising was found. Cookies and pies are made from scratch daily. Christine picked up an assortment of cookies and I procured a peach pie to take with us for desert later in the evening. Just a few minutes from the Inn south on 67 is Kaibab Camper Village. We had decided upon this particular campground because it is the closest to the North Rim with full hookups for RVs. Although it is still another 45 miles to the park entrance we do enjoy having electric and water when we use the travel trailer. Not a bad campground, very quiet and plenty of shade. A word of caution however, there were a few complaints on their website about vault toilets, the staff even made me aware that the facilities were limited to vault toilets when I checked in. I was sufficiently mentally prepared and replied that I was aware of the situation. I have been to countless national and state parks and scores of them have vault toilets that are environment friendly and nearly as good as the toilet at home. The next morning I was to discover why folks had complained. Their vault toilets are the same port-a-potties found at construction sites across the country. Three feet below lies the, well you know where I'm going with this. If Kaibab Camper Village would update their website and state that they have port-a-potties they might not get any bad reviews. But if they upgraded to real vault toilets they'd have many more happy campers. The first evening we dined on marinated steak and as I sat outside an intrepid hummingbird hovered inches from my face for several seconds checking me out and then just as abruptly moved on. Darkness fell and the sky lit up with a star show reserved only for those that put the metropolis in their rear view mirrors. The night was cool and allowed for sound sleep in the quiet wilderness.
Saturday morning we had a lazy breakfast and coffee then made our way to the Rim. The drive through the worlds largest forest of Ponderosa Pine was reminiscent of driving through parts of Colorado until we approached the remains of the 2006 Warm Fire. Both sides of Highway 67 are still recovering and cast an eerie feeling of total devastation that creeps into your psyche. The scorched remains of towering pines contrast sharply with the white aspens that are infiltrating the forest and adding to the macabreness by creating a solid black and white tapestry. Fortunately the charred woodland gives way to the mixed growth of fir, pine and aspen dotted with meadows, ponds, grazing mule deer and wild turkeys the rest of the way to the park entrance.
We parked near the Grand Canyon Lodge just before 11:00 a.m. on August 15th. To be in Arizona in August and have the truck's outside temperature gauge read 73 degrees was exhilarating and yet another reason to celebrate the North Rim over the South. I don't mean to bash too hard on the south side but it is very heavily touristed and rises from the desert whereas the north side is heavily forested and 2000 feet higher in elevation. At 8800 feet the park is not able to stay open to the public year round due to heavy winter snows. Both Rims are spectacular but are also completely different from one another.
The view of the canyon draws your eyes right through the lobby of the Grand Canyon Lodge as you enter the main doors. Massive windows line the outer wall of the great room that is filled with couches and chairs in order to provide peaceful and unobstructed views for miles and miles of geological splendor. We sat outside on the back porch and drank it all in with our Teva clad feet propped up on the stone ledge. After a while we decided to venture out to a couple of the nearby trails and find a spot to enjoy the picnic lunch that we had prepared back at the campsite. When we left the lodge via the west patio in the back we passed the dining room and thought we'd just pop in see what it had to offer for a future visit. The lunch buffet was 3 types of pasta with 3 sauces to choose from and a nicely appointed salad bar. The tables all shared great canyon views so we decided to restructure our day. Lunch at the lodge and a picnic for dinner back at the trailer. Lunch was $13 each and included the pasta bar, salad bar and beverages. The wait staff was very attentive and obviously very happy to be living and working on the North Rim. Although not quite on the same scale as a pasta lunch in Napoli I would definitely eat there again and not exclusively for the view.
The Transept Trail then led us away from the lodge and towards the campground a mile and a half away. The definition for transept found at www.dictionary.com is "any major transverse part of the body of a church, usually crossing the nave, at right angles, at the entrance to the choir." Very appropriate, for this church is Grand Canyon National Park and the trail hugs the rim offering outrageous views in every direction. We came upon a bench that was vacant, as was the rest of the trail except for a handful of hikers, and sat in silence except for nature's choir of wind through the trees complementing the avian symphony.



Shortly after we drug ourselves away from the most wonderful rest spot on the continent we saw a Goshawk take flight and upon entering the campground a Kaibab Squirrel with its distinctive black body and silver tail scampered past us and up a tree. He was kind enough to sit on a limb and pose for a picture.



The campground is quite nice and we will definitely return for some rim side camping even if it is without hookups. The Bridal Trail also links the lodge and campground but does not follow the edge of the canyon. It is a well maintained path and travels past log cabins that are for rent near the lodge. After a full day at the park we headed back to camp and enjoyed our picnic with some tasty wheat beer and peach pie. The inquisitive hummingbird reappeared and we listed to the aspen quake as the wind rustled through the treetops.
The entirety of Grand Canyon National Park is a spectacular place. Last time I was there was for a solo backpacking trip 2 years ago from the South Rim to the river. This time seeing the canyon was much different. The views from the rims are breathtaking but there is nothing that compares to the view from the river looking up. If you want to see the canyon spend time and explore, don't do a drive-by on the South Rim like millions of others do every year. This trip was with our trailer and still a riveting experience. We'll head back up there again this year that much is for sure. We will be stopping for more desert at Jacob Lake too.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

From here all things are possible



After reading in the Sunday paper that this weekend marks the 40th year since the Woodstock Music and Arts Festival I climbed on my trusty Trek road bike and headed out with an eclectic mix of tunes in my IPod to power me through the August heat. Hendrix played then came Carlos and many more representing those 3 days of mayhem in Bethel. Suddenly I realized what would become my mantra. By replacing "fight" with "bike" I began chanting "I will bike to prove I'm right" while jamming to Chevelle. I did say it was an eclectic mix. But what exactly was I going to be right about? Growing up in the '70s I always thought I had been born 10 years too late when I finally learned of the Woodstock festival. I hadn't heard of it while it was happening because I was only 6 at the time but discovering the Who, Hendrix and Alvin Lee was much more appealing in my teens than the chart topping acts of Gary Wright and Elton John w/ Kiki Dee. Last week my wife gave me an Arizona State University cycling jersey for my birthday and after reading the tribute to Woodstock I finally slipped it on and was devastated. It fit more like a maternity garment than a svelte pronouncement of athleticism it was constructed for. Yes she had purchased the correct size, XL. It finally came crashing down on me, like it or not, I am middle aged! So I peddled out of the driveway and steered towards the back roads in the western reaches of the Vally of the Sun. Feeling down trodden the music pulsed through. I could throw in the towel and admit defeat by convincing myself that most people reach the same level of sedentary lifestyle by the time they are closer to 50 than 40. Got the house, 2 cars, travel trailer and 2 grown children living on their own. My wife Christine would also add to the list that near the 58 inch High Def television is a cushion on the couch than has a permanent indentation that could be matched to my ass. No, I really don't have to accept that my maternity jersey is fate. After all, I used to be in great shape. After 23 years in the Navy I ran my final 1.5 mile fitness test in 9:06 at the age of 40. But then came college. I did it backwards, career then college. I entered a second full time federal career and went to ASU full time in the evenings for 4 years rendering a degree in American Studies with a minor in Political Science. As proud as I was of finally graduating from a university I was just as much ashamed of how much weight I had gained while reaching that milestone. I told myself it would be a snap getting back into top form and the pounds will surely fall right back off. Over a year later and I'm cycling around in a spandex maternity blouse. But I don't have to be out of shape. Middle aged and soft is a choice not a right of passage! Enter Chevelle, I will bike to prove I'm right. I am just an average guy that has always had an appreciation for music and the great outdoors. Today I am 5'10", weigh 235 lbs and have a 45" circumference. Yesterday Christine and I drove to the cooler elevations of the high country to watch the Cardinals practice during their training camp at Northern Arizona University. We were amazed by their intensity and athleticism. They nearly won the last Super Bowl and now have that hunger going into this season that will have them fighting for the national title. For me, I will bike, jog, hike, camp and explore relentlessly to prove I'm right. I'll eventually be the svelte guy wearing the loose fitting ASU jersey exploring the back roads of the southwest with memories of the concert I was too young to attend filling my ears. Come along and I'll share my quest for all things adventurous (and yummy) in the glorious Sonoran Desert and beyond.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Symphony at the Ballpark

We attended the annual Estrella Pops concert last evening and, as usual, enjoyed a fantastic concert by the Phoenix Symphony. Brian & Sam along with friends of ours Jeff and Dawna sat under the stars as the symphony played a long list of favorites by American composers Irving Berlin, George Gershwin, Cole Porter and Henry Mancini to name just a few. The concert has always been held at Estrella Mountain Ranch right on the edge of the lake but, due to our poor economy I trust, the primary sponsor (Newland Homes) backed out so the venue changed to the brand new Goodyear Ballpark built for the Cleveland Indians. Although the setting was more conducive to a festive atmosphere at the lake the show last night (sans fireworks) was a great time with good friends.


Rocky Mountain Views and Tasty MicroBrews

There are few places that are more compelling to understand the glory of God than in the Rocky Mountains. From emerald green meadows and snow capped peaks to the rushing mountain streams that render liquid gold libations, for many, Colorado is the Promised Land. With sunny skies and 70 degree weather I was already looking forward to a break from the premature triple digit temps of the Sonoran Desert, it was only the first week of May after all. Last week marked my fourth week-long trip to the Centennial State (Durango, Colorado Springs & Denver x2) but this time I procured lodging in the heart of Denver 2 blocks from the 16th Street Mall. The mixed use corridor is a pedestrian only 1.25 mile stretch of sidewalk cafes and an eclectic mix of shopping with various kiosks, chess tables and musicians occupying space that was once the road. The lower downtown area of the mall is affectionately known as Lodo. Dozens of 19th century brick buildings and warehouses have been converted into lofts and brew pubs making Lodo the “new” place to go for a fun night on the town and my first stop of the week. That brings me to a startling observation. I imagined that I would witness a sea of Broncos bumper stickers in their home town but did not. In lieu of the blue and orange logos I was barraged with Obama proclamations on the backside of nearly every Volvo, Subaru and Prius in town. There were more “B.O.” decalcomaniacs than Terrible Towels at a Steelers game. I was in the land of his highness, so some might want you to believe, but I digress. So I stepped into a pub and while waiting for the hostess I began reading the signage touting their varieties of microbrew. Pale ale, wheat, lager…..Obama Brew, at that same instant the bubbly hostess asked if I’d like a table or a seat at the bar and all I could spit out was “I am in the wrong place” and quickly retreated out onto the streets of Lodo. Fortunately the next ale house seemed to be an Obama free zone and I enjoyed a dinner of bangers and mashers (Scottish sausage and mashed potatoes) with a superb wheat beer (or 2). The next afternoon I headed north through Boulder towards Estes Park. Last trip I spent a day in Boulder and really enjoyed the university town and the rabid sense of outdoor adventure the locals all seem to share. After all, Boulder is THE place that scores of professional cyclists, triathletes and Olympians live to train at high altitude. But there was no time to spare for previously trodden ground, on to Estes Park. At the end of the Foothills Hwy I turned left onto Ute Hwy and was soon passing through the small town of Lyons. At a town park next to the rural highway there were 15 or so cars parked and folks were in various stages of loading and unloading kayaks that were to be launched in the white water that paralleled the road. There seemed to be a few eateries in this hamlet that deserve attention so I’ll definitely spend more time on a future voyage but now, on to Estes Park. The asphalt gripped terra firma as the landscape soared into the sky. My trusty Dodge Avenger was daydreaming it had become a corvette, or maybe that was my wish, as the trail snaked upward through the mountains. Bend after beautiful bend eventually gave way to the valley known as Estes Park. Lake Estes straddles both sides of the roadway and the village is surrounded by majestic peaks blanketed in white. Across the lake I noticed a behemoth of a structure that lured me in as my first stop off. The Stanley Hotel was visited in the summer of 1975 by Stephen King while in Colorado for an extended stay. The hotel became his inspiration for The Shinning and the grandeur of its turn of the century appointments leaves no doubt about it. There is a tour of the palatial structure highlighting the specifics of where Mr. King found his influences for his spooky tome. I did hear a few strange sounds that I narrowed down to the creaky elevator shaft of the original lift, I’m sure that’s all it was, I think. Time was of the essence so I departed passing through the village and was soon at the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park where I stopped briefly, turned around and headed back to town. Note to self, next trip should be exclusively for exploring the park. At a roadside campground on the edge of Estes Park were 2 herds, elk and mule deer, making the place their own. One particular camper was sure to return from dinner in town or a hike in the park to discover that his tent had been invaded and now laid on the ground devoid of its former dome shape. The sight of grazing deer reminded me that it was time to forage for myself. The packed parking lot at Smokin’ Dave’s BBQ & Taphouse was enough of an indication that it should be worth a try. I have gone on record previously as a devote of Texas style BBQ and so reluctantly I ordered Dave’s Triple Smokin’ Platter with St. Louis ribs, Carolina pulled pork and a roasted half chicken. My platter of slow cooked animal flesh arrived with sides of red beans & rice, BBQ baked beans and a cornbread muffin. I rolled up my sleeves, cocked my elbows chest high and out to the sides to ward of predators and commenced to chow down. Rarely do I order ribs because I prefer my own dry rub recipe but Dave is truly a master of all styles of BBQ. The wet ribs were terrific, as was the mountain of pork and succulent yardbird. Delivered to the table in a Bud Light 6 pack carrier, all of the sauces were fabulous too. Carolina mustard, sweet, tangy and spicy toppings all went on different parts of the feast. The sides were also perfect and for someone that does not like cornbread, well lets just say that Dave’s is not your average dry, throat clogging muffin. It was so sweet and moist that I may have been converted (next time I’m in Estes I’ll eat cornbread again). Night had fallen and I begrudgingly drove back down the mountain to the city. The following afternoon I made a pilgrimage to Recreational Equipment Inc. a.k.a. REI. The flagship store in Denver is in a renovated huge old brick structure across the South Platte River from Lodo. The local area is packed with lofts and funky shops. Paths for runners and cyclist flow throughout Denver and seem to all converge at REI. My reason for making it a point to always visit the store when I’m in town is not so much for the shopping, although that is usually accomplished too, but for the porch that wraps along the side and behind the building. I grabbed an iced passion tea-lemonade at the Starbucks within and headed out back for the view. Citizens of the Mile High City were out en masse walking, jogging, cycling and kayaking and from my vantage point on the back porch the locals were living the good life in the great outdoors (downtown) free from smog and traffic. After rehydrating I pointed the Avenger west and headed back up the Rockies for a 90 minute drive to Breckenridge. Interstate 70 climbs and descends the steep grades while passing by ski resort after ski resort. Turning south from the highway and passing through the town of Frisco the small community of Breckenridge was a charming respite from the 70 mph pace of the interstate. Shops, restaurants and pubs line the streets. Should I eat at Bubba Gump’s or the Breckenridge Brewery? I decided to go with the ale house and was pleased once again. Their signature Brewhouse Burger, Tijuana Style, lured me in. The ½ pound patty was covered in pepper jack cheese, dripping with guacamole and pilled high with jalapeƱos. To go with the theme I selected their Agave Wheat beer and was treated to one of the best malted beverages I’ve ever tasted. After a great burger and a tasty brew I once again forced myself to head back down the mountain to the metropolis. After work on Friday, did I forget to mention that I was in Colorado on an official assignment, silly me, anyway I grabbed a late lunch at Wolfgang Puck’s in the airport. A spicy chicken pizza was perfectly baked in their wood fire pizza oven (at the airport for pete’s sake) and they had Breckenridge Brewery’s Agave Wheat on tap. Nirvana at the airport. I flew back on United and must say that carrier performed exceptionally on this trip. I fly frequently on Southwest, Delta, U.S. Airways and American but they don’t hold a candle to United. Professional flight attendants, a very clean and comfortable cabin with on-time flights, imagine that. Colorado is beautiful place to enjoy life to the fullest; no wonder John Denver had such an easy time penning all of those terrific lyrics. Don’t let a little Obama mania spoil you plans to vacation in paradise.







Sunday, March 22, 2009

Paella in Santa Fe

I spent a few days in Albuquerque this week and really enjoyed the authenticity of the Southwestern experience. Last time I was there I ate at the Monte Carlo which was featured on Guy Fiere's "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives." This time I had to follow-up on an episode that featured Sophia's Place and, as usual, it did not disappoint. The cod fish tacos were yummy but the pinon nut brownie was absolutely the best brownie I ever tasted! While in ABQ I was also able to get my fix of Texas BBQ at Rudy's; had the pulled pork and green chile stew. The big event of the trip however, albiet, I did have to do some work while I was there, was the Friday trip to Santa Fe. That is a really cool/historic/eclectic town! I dined at El Meson which is an authentic Spanish place where the chef/owner hails from Madrid. The bread was crunchy good, the sangria flowed like wine ;-) and the Pallea a la Valenciana was superb. Bomba rice cooked with saffron then loaded with chorizo, chicken, mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops and Mahi-Mahi is a recipe for heavenly dining! When in Santa Fe dine at El Meson.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Walter Trout at the Rhythm Room

Went to the Rhythm Room last night and had a blast! It's a great juke joint in downtown Phoenix (maybe juke joint is a stretch but we're not even near the delta out here) where all the blues masters pass through. The last time I saw Walter Trout was in Vegas with Bob, Aimee and Pat. That was a great show but the energy gets cranked up at the Rhythm Room due to it's limited seating and capacity. The crowd was roaring as Walter tore it up on his Strat for nearly 2 hours. After Walter and his band departed (they too are masters at their craft) the Rhythm Room All-Stars featuring Big Pete Pearson (vocals) and Bob Corritore (harp) got the crowd off their seats and on their feet with their dance friendly blues grooves.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Mountain Biking in Sedona

Steve and I headed up to Cottonwood Thursday afternoon and set up camp at Dead Horse Ranch State Park. Had dinner and a couple beers then turned in early for Friday's adventure. After eggs and grilled pork chops for breakfast we drove 20 minutes up the road to Sedona and entered Bell Rock Park. Most of the day was spent on the bikes. The Bell Rock Pathway is a rolling trail that heads west past Bell Rock towards Chappel of the Holy Cross. We turned off onto numerous singletrack trails and, even though we hiked the bikes in a few spots, the outback was spectacular. Following 4 plus hours on the bikes we devoured our lunch in the parking lot and headed across the street to Bike and Bean for a cup of java to go. Leaving Sedona we passed back through Cottonwood and headed up the mountain for another cup of joe in Jerome. The veiw accross the Verde Valley to the San Francisco Peaks was as brilliant as I've ever seen it. Back at camp we cooked up some garlic chicken, garlic fries and a salad. Another evening by the campfire and it was early to bed for some tired legs. Got up Saturday morning and had eggs and garlic chicken then packed up and headed back to the Valley of the Sun.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Montezuma's Castle & Sedona

Drove up north with Christine & Steve yesterday to see the cliff dwellings and do some mountain biking. Montezuma's Castle (Montezuma was never there) is always an interesting place to visit. The Sinagua Indians built their cliff fortresses near Beaver Creek and prospered in the northern
Arizona desert 700 years ago. After a picnic lunch we continued on to Sedona. Christine did some walking and window shopping while Steve and I went mountain biking. The Bell Rock trail was a great ride even though both bikes encountered derailleur issues. Could have been a negative vortex at work, who knows? But nothing was going to deter us on a beautiful March afternoon in Red Rock country. We snapped a few sunset photos then had dinner at the Cowboy Club. Ben, our server was exceptional and the food (buffalo burger, skewered buffalo with indian flat bread and salad with grilled chicken) was pleasing to the eye and palate.


Monday, March 2, 2009

Arizona Renaissance Festival

Steve flew out from Atlanta where it was snowing this morning to a beautiful March day in the Valley of the Sun. We left Sky Harbor Airport and drove immediately to the Renaissance Festival. The turkey drumsticks were yummy as was the beer and brats. The 3 of us strolled through the grounds that were covered with renaissance era clothing, jewelry and food shops. The entertainment was first rate. We ate, watched a falconry show then saw some swashbuckling sword fighting, ate some more, saw a musical/comedy/juggling show ate some more then finished with the jousting tournament. Had a fantastic day and went home slightly sun burnt. Quite a bit different than March first in Atlanta.