Sunday, September 20, 2009

North Kaibab Trail to Roaring Springs

Located on the North Rim or Grand Canyon National Park with an altitude of 8250 at the trail head caution is advised. Anytime hiking over the edge into the abyss proper preparation pays dividends ten-fold. This day hike should not be undertaken carelessly but the rewards are stunning views, a terrific trail much less populated than those on the other rim and a refreshing dip in the springs.
September 10th my soon to be son-in-law and I left the North Rim Campground and parked at the trail head about a mile away. Paved and equipped with a couple toilets the parking lot is more than adequate. The sky was overcast and a light drizzle had us stoked for an excellent hike. Heavily forested with ponderosa pine, aspen and fir trees to the Coconino Overlook, the path seems to be much more like a trail carved in the Rockies but the red rock vistas serve as a reminder that the return trip will not be as enjoyable.

The overlook is 3/4 of a mile from the Rim and is doable for for most folks of average fitness. Don't go further if you have not adequately prepared for Grand Canyon trekking. From here the flora begins to change and upon arrival at the Supai Tunnel the deciduous forest is but a distant memory. There is a water spicket and outhouses on the north side of the tunnel as well as some large rocks arranged for lounging. Two miles from the Rim there are still 3 more descending miles to the springs.

Soon after departing from the tunnel The Bridge in the Redwall appears off in the distance beyond a slew of switchbacks and lies just over half way to the springs.

Just past the bridge the trails ascends for several yards and it is a welcomed feeling in the legs to use different muscle groups. Descending goes hard on the calves whereas climbing burns the quads and lungs. Along the trail there are a few signs describing the various rock formations and one that speaks of the fauna found on this side of the canyon. The most fragrant signs of animals however are the 2 or 3 spots along the trail that the mules have declared as their group dumping grounds. The trail is muddy in these spots from the buckets of urine deposited by the beasts of burden. Its not that bad though, just take a deep breath and walk around. The path winds past hundred foot walls to one side with hundred foot drop-offs on the other then on through red, mauve and green layers and suddenly you can hear the springs definitely roaring but still over a mile away. A few bends later and the springs come into view and then a fork in the trail, left to the springs and right to Cottonwood Campground.

The springs flow from several spots in the rock wall creating a few streams and waterfalls. The outhouse and picnic tables are near a stream that has undoubtedly been damned by hikers to form small pools in order to cool off in after a long day on the trail. Dustin and I pulled off our socks and boots and slipped our feet into the cool clear water. Soon after we were completely submerged and literally chillin just off the North Kaibab Trail. After a quick lunch we headed back up the trail with 5 miles done and 5 more to go. Shortly after passing back across the bridge we caught a glimpse of a man and woman (mid thirties) hiking in the same direction. The woman was using trekking poles and I was cursing myself for the stupid decision not to bring mine this time. We finally caught up to them at the tunnel and found out that they had started on the South Rim the previous day and lodged at Phantom Ranch. They had intended on making a day hike up the North Kaibab and return to the river but did not fully anticipate how strenuous the hike would become. Fortunately they had made reservations at the Grand Canyon Lodge as a contingency plan and were extremely grateful when we gave them a lift from the trail head to the lodge as another 2 miles separate one from the other.
The hike was 10 miles round trip and, including an hour for a leisurely lunch and soak in the frigid spring water, we took 6 hours from start to finish. We had our Camelbaks full of water and carried Clif Bars and Clif Shot Bloks along with a couple PB&Js for lunch. Dustin drained his 2 liter reservoir but refilled at the tunnel on the way back up. My 3 liter was sufficient for the entire trip. The temperature was in the 60s at the trail head and 80s at the springs. By the time we got back up to the truck the temperature was in the upper 50s. The trail was shaded from the sun for the majority of the day but there was a remarkable temperature difference when we were in full exposure.
Recommendations:
Don't attempt hiking to the springs and back if you are not a seasoned hiker.
Carry a packable poncho or rain jacket just in case.
Bring snacks and water.
Small first aid kit (I used duct tape to prevent a blister this trip)
Enjoy the trail and tread lightly!

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