Sunday, September 27, 2009

Kaibab Camper Village

Just a few minutes from the Jacob Lake Inn south on 67 is Kaibab Camper Village. We had decided upon this particular campground because it is the closest to the North Rim with full hookups for RVs. Although it is still another 45 miles to the park entrance we do enjoy having electric and water when we use the travel trailer. Not a bad campground, very quiet and plenty of shade. A word of caution however, there were a few complaints on their website about vault toilets, the staff even made me aware that the facilities were limited to vault toilets when I checked in. I was sufficiently mentally prepared and replied that I was aware of the situation. I have been to countless national and state parks and scores of them have vault toilets that are environment friendly and nearly as good as the toilet at home. The next morning I was to discover why folks had complained. Their vault toilets are the same port-a-potties found at construction sites across the country. Three feet below lies the, well you know where I'm going with this. If Kaibab Camper Village would update their website and state that they have port-a-potties they might not get any bad reviews. But if they upgraded to real vault toilets they'd have many more happy campers.
Specifics:
Pull-thru and back-in (both unpaved)
Water, electric & septic hookups
Pay showers
Port-a-potty toilets
Fires permitted only in common area (center of park)
Small store
5 minutes from Jacob Lake store & gas station
45 miles/minutes from GC National Park (North Rim)

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Wahweap Campground at Lake Powell in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

Lake Powell in September is perfect for camping and the campsites at Wahweap Campground are top notch. We camped in "D" loop which is closest to the lake and were fortunate enough to have a campsite with unobstructed views of the water. In this particular loop all of the sites are pull-through, paved and level. They are equipped with a grill, a separate fire ring and a very nice picnic table. The bathrooms were very clean with sinks and flush toilets. The store is about a quarter mile away from this particular loop and it is very well equipped. Groceries, firewood, beverages and Lake Powell souviners are plentiful and the showers and laundromat are connected to the store. The washers and dryers are Maytag brand and in very good condition. The showers are coin operated and for $2.00 I ended up turning the water off before it ran out. One of the marinas is across the road from the campground along with a boat launch. The Utah border is steps away and just beyond the state line is an area called The Coves. Three loops provide parking spaces and are a exceptional spot to get out and explore the coastline or jump off a cliff and get wet!

Everything about the Wahweap Campground was exceptional from the clean facilities and lakeside views to the full hookups and star filled skies. September temperatures were near 90 during the day and in the lower 70s at night and we will certainly heading back for more RVing and water fun in the future!
Specifics:
Pull-thru & back-in sites
Electric, water & septic hookups
Picnic table, fire ring & separate grill
Clean bathrooms
Clean pay showers (at the store)
Laundromat (at the store)
Well equipped store

North Rim Campground, Grand Canyon National Park


Although there are no hookups at the North Rim Campground its close proximity to the edge of the GC easily makes up for the lack of RV park amenities. The sites are all paved and pull through with a fire ring and picnic table. The campground store is very well equipped with groceries, beverages, camping supplies, firewood, GC souvenirs and a coffee shop. Near the entrance of the campground is a dump station and a fresh water spicket for filling RV storage tanks. There are ample restroom facilities throughout the campground with flush toilets and sinks, the one by our site was kept very clean. Also available are pay showers that for $1.50 you get about 6 minutes of great water pressure and water as hot or cool as you care for. Generators are allowed at the sites with quiet hours begin at 8:00 pm and everyone complied during our stay. We did not hear any disturbing noises from other campers and completely enjoyed our visit. There are 2 trails connecting the campground with the Grand Canyon Lodge. The Transept Trail hugs the rim along the way to the lodge and is an excellent place to view sunset from the campground. The Bridal Trail is much more manicured and considerable flatter than the Transept. Both are about 1.5 miles from the lodge. When backpacking I never expect any sort of amenities where I camp but when I'm in the travel trailer I usually go for the locations with full hookups. With the North Rim literally steps from this campground providing stunning sunset views who cares about whether or not you can use your microwave oven?
Specifics:
Pull-thru sites
No hookups (potable water at dump station)
Picnic table & fire ring w/ attached grill
Clean bathrooms
Clean pay showers
Very well equipped store

GORE-TEX or not?

Living in the desert and doing the vast majority of my hiking in the southwestern United States I decided to save a couple dollars on my last pair of boots and forego the GORE-TEX. I bought the Merrell Moab Ventilator and have been completely satisfied. Trekking in the desert usual means water is not a concern on the trail, until my most recent hike. My daughter and her fiance were in town from Virginia and before were drove up to the North Rim Dustin needed to pick up new hiking boots. He bought the Merrell Moab GORE-TEX as I had mentioned how much I loved my Moabs. Heading down the North Kaibab Trail all was well. When we arrived at Roaring Springs the water beckoned and as we hiked around the lower falls both of us got our boots wet but only mine soaked through to the socks. During lunch I let my boots and socks dry in the sun but they were still damp when I headed back up the trail. About a mile later I felt a blister welling under my big toe but immediately removed the boot and wrapped said toe in duct tape averting the aforementioned blister. Back at the trail head my boots were lightly caked in red dirt while Dustin's merely had a dusting. Remarkable difference. Same boot major difference made by GORE-TEX. Next pair of boots I buy will definitely be the waterproof model.

North Kaibab Trail to Roaring Springs

Located on the North Rim or Grand Canyon National Park with an altitude of 8250 at the trail head caution is advised. Anytime hiking over the edge into the abyss proper preparation pays dividends ten-fold. This day hike should not be undertaken carelessly but the rewards are stunning views, a terrific trail much less populated than those on the other rim and a refreshing dip in the springs.
September 10th my soon to be son-in-law and I left the North Rim Campground and parked at the trail head about a mile away. Paved and equipped with a couple toilets the parking lot is more than adequate. The sky was overcast and a light drizzle had us stoked for an excellent hike. Heavily forested with ponderosa pine, aspen and fir trees to the Coconino Overlook, the path seems to be much more like a trail carved in the Rockies but the red rock vistas serve as a reminder that the return trip will not be as enjoyable.

The overlook is 3/4 of a mile from the Rim and is doable for for most folks of average fitness. Don't go further if you have not adequately prepared for Grand Canyon trekking. From here the flora begins to change and upon arrival at the Supai Tunnel the deciduous forest is but a distant memory. There is a water spicket and outhouses on the north side of the tunnel as well as some large rocks arranged for lounging. Two miles from the Rim there are still 3 more descending miles to the springs.

Soon after departing from the tunnel The Bridge in the Redwall appears off in the distance beyond a slew of switchbacks and lies just over half way to the springs.

Just past the bridge the trails ascends for several yards and it is a welcomed feeling in the legs to use different muscle groups. Descending goes hard on the calves whereas climbing burns the quads and lungs. Along the trail there are a few signs describing the various rock formations and one that speaks of the fauna found on this side of the canyon. The most fragrant signs of animals however are the 2 or 3 spots along the trail that the mules have declared as their group dumping grounds. The trail is muddy in these spots from the buckets of urine deposited by the beasts of burden. Its not that bad though, just take a deep breath and walk around. The path winds past hundred foot walls to one side with hundred foot drop-offs on the other then on through red, mauve and green layers and suddenly you can hear the springs definitely roaring but still over a mile away. A few bends later and the springs come into view and then a fork in the trail, left to the springs and right to Cottonwood Campground.

The springs flow from several spots in the rock wall creating a few streams and waterfalls. The outhouse and picnic tables are near a stream that has undoubtedly been damned by hikers to form small pools in order to cool off in after a long day on the trail. Dustin and I pulled off our socks and boots and slipped our feet into the cool clear water. Soon after we were completely submerged and literally chillin just off the North Kaibab Trail. After a quick lunch we headed back up the trail with 5 miles done and 5 more to go. Shortly after passing back across the bridge we caught a glimpse of a man and woman (mid thirties) hiking in the same direction. The woman was using trekking poles and I was cursing myself for the stupid decision not to bring mine this time. We finally caught up to them at the tunnel and found out that they had started on the South Rim the previous day and lodged at Phantom Ranch. They had intended on making a day hike up the North Kaibab and return to the river but did not fully anticipate how strenuous the hike would become. Fortunately they had made reservations at the Grand Canyon Lodge as a contingency plan and were extremely grateful when we gave them a lift from the trail head to the lodge as another 2 miles separate one from the other.
The hike was 10 miles round trip and, including an hour for a leisurely lunch and soak in the frigid spring water, we took 6 hours from start to finish. We had our Camelbaks full of water and carried Clif Bars and Clif Shot Bloks along with a couple PB&Js for lunch. Dustin drained his 2 liter reservoir but refilled at the tunnel on the way back up. My 3 liter was sufficient for the entire trip. The temperature was in the 60s at the trail head and 80s at the springs. By the time we got back up to the truck the temperature was in the upper 50s. The trail was shaded from the sun for the majority of the day but there was a remarkable temperature difference when we were in full exposure.
Recommendations:
Don't attempt hiking to the springs and back if you are not a seasoned hiker.
Carry a packable poncho or rain jacket just in case.
Bring snacks and water.
Small first aid kit (I used duct tape to prevent a blister this trip)
Enjoy the trail and tread lightly!