Kaibab Camper Village

Just a few minutes from the Jacob Lake Inn south on 67 is Kaibab Camper Village. We had decided upon this particular campground because it is the closest to the North Rim with full hookups for RVs. Although it is still another 45 miles to the park entrance we do enjoy having electric and water when we use the travel trailer. Not a bad campground, very quiet and plenty of shade. A word of caution however, there were a few complaints on their website about vault toilets, the staff even made me aware that the facilities were limited to vault toilets when I checked in. I was sufficiently mentally prepared and replied that I was aware of the situation. I have been to countless national and state parks and scores of them have vault toilets that are environment friendly and nearly as good as the toilet at home. The next morning I was to discover why folks had complained. Their vault toilets are the same port-a-potties found at construction sites across the country. Three feet below lies the, well you know where I'm going with this. If Kaibab Camper Village would update their website and state that they have port-a-potties they might not get any bad reviews. But if they upgraded to real vault toilets they'd have many more happy campers.
Specifics:
Pull-thru and back-in (both unpaved)
Water, electric & septic hookups
Pay showers
Port-a-potty toilets
Fires permitted only in common area (center of park)
Small store
5 minutes from Jacob Lake store & gas station
45 miles/minutes from GC National Park (North Rim)

Wahweap Campground at Lake Powell in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

Lake Powell in September is perfect for camping and the campsites at Wahweap Campground are top notch. We camped in "D" loop which is closest to the lake and were fortunate enough to have a campsite with unobstructed views of the water. In this particular loop all of the sites are pull-through, paved and level. They are equipped with a grill, a separate fire ring and a very nice picnic table. The bathrooms were very clean with sinks and flush toilets. The store is about a quarter mile away from this particular loop and it is very well equipped. Groceries, firewood, beverages and Lake Powell souviners are plentiful and the showers and laundromat are connected to the store. The washers and dryers are Maytag brand and in very good condition. The showers are coin operated and for $2.00 I ended up turning the water off before it ran out. One of the marinas is across the road from the campground along with a boat launch. The Utah border is steps away and just beyond the state line is an area called The Coves. Three loops provide parking spaces and are a exceptional spot to get out and explore the coastline or jump off a cliff and get wet!

Everything about the Wahweap Campground was exceptional from the clean facilities and lakeside views to the full hookups and star filled skies. September temperatures were near 90 during the day and in the lower 70s at night and we will certainly heading back for more RVing and water fun in the future!
Specifics:
Pull-thru & back-in sites
Electric, water & septic hookups
Picnic table, fire ring & separate grill
Clean bathrooms
Clean pay showers (at the store)
Laundromat (at the store)
Well equipped store

North Rim Campground, Grand Canyon National Park

Although there are no hookups at the North Rim Campground its close proximity to the edge of the GC easily makes up for the lack of RV park amenities. The sites are all paved and pull through with a fire ring and picnic table. The campground store is very well equipped with groceries, beverages, camping supplies, firewood, GC souvenirs and a coffee shop. Near the entrance of the campground is a dump station and a fresh water spicket for filling RV storage tanks. There are ample restroom facilities throughout the campground with flush toilets and sinks, the one by our site was kept very clean. Also available are pay showers that for $1.50 you get about 6 minutes of great water pressure and water as hot or cool as you care for. Generators are allowed at the sites with quiet hours begin at 8:00 pm and everyone complied during our stay. We did not hear any disturbing noises from other campers and completely enjoyed our visit. There are 2 trails connecting the campground with the Grand Canyon Lodge. The Transept Trail hugs the rim along the way to the lodge and is an excellent place to view sunset from the campground. The Bridal Trail is much more manicured and considerable flatter than the Transept. Both are about 1.5 miles from the lodge. When backpacking I never expect any sort of amenities where I camp but when I'm in the travel trailer I usually go for the locations with full hookups. With the North Rim literally steps from this campground providing stunning sunset views who cares about whether or not you can use your microwave oven?
Specifics:
Pull-thru sites
No hookups (potable water at dump station)
Picnic table & fire ring w/ attached grill
Clean bathrooms
Clean pay showers
Very well equipped store

GORE-TEX or not?

Living in the desert and doing the vast majority of my hiking in the southwestern United States I decided to save a couple dollars on my last pair of boots and forego the GORE-TEX. I bought the Merrell Moab Ventilator and have been completely satisfied. Trekking in the desert usual means water is not a concern on the trail, until my most recent hike. My daughter and her fiance were in town from Virginia and before were drove up to the North Rim Dustin needed to pick up new hiking boots. He bought the Merrell Moab GORE-TEX as I had mentioned how much I loved my Moabs. Heading down the North Kaibab Trail all was well. When we arrived at Roaring Springs the water beckoned and as we hiked around the lower falls both of us got our boots wet but only mine soaked through to the socks. During lunch I let my boots and socks dry in the sun but they were still damp when I headed back up the trail. About a mile later I felt a blister welling under my big toe but immediately removed the boot and wrapped said toe in duct tape averting the aforementioned blister. Back at the trail head my boots were lightly caked in red dirt while Dustin's merely had a dusting. Remarkable difference. Same boot major difference made by GORE-TEX. Next pair of boots I buy will definitely be the waterproof model.

North Kaibab Trail to Roaring Springs

Located on the North Rim or Grand Canyon National Park with an altitude of 8250 at the trail head caution is advised. Anytime hiking over the edge into the abyss proper preparation pays dividends ten-fold. This day hike should not be undertaken carelessly but the rewards are stunning views, a terrific trail much less populated than those on the other rim and a refreshing dip in the springs.
September 10th my soon to be son-in-law and I left the North Rim Campground and parked at the trail head about a mile away. Paved and equipped with a couple toilets the parking lot is more than adequate. The sky was overcast and a light drizzle had us stoked for an excellent hike. Heavily forested with ponderosa pine, aspen and fir trees to the Coconino Overlook, the path seems to be much more like a trail carved in the Rockies but the red rock vistas serve as a reminder that the return trip will not be as enjoyable.

The overlook is 3/4 of a mile from the Rim and is doable for for most folks of average fitness. Don't go further if you have not adequately prepared for Grand Canyon trekking. From here the flora begins to change and upon arrival at the Supai Tunnel the deciduous forest is but a distant memory. There is a water spicket and outhouses on the north side of the tunnel as well as some large rocks arranged for lounging. Two miles from the Rim there are still 3 more descending miles to the springs.

Soon after departing from the tunnel The Bridge in the Redwall appears off in the distance beyond a slew of switchbacks and lies just over half way to the springs.

Just past the bridge the trails ascends for several yards and it is a welcomed feeling in the legs to use different muscle groups. Descending goes hard on the calves whereas climbing burns the quads and lungs. Along the trail there are a few signs describing the various rock formations and one that speaks of the fauna found on this side of the canyon. The most fragrant signs of animals however are the 2 or 3 spots along the trail that the mules have declared as their group dumping grounds. The trail is muddy in these spots from the buckets of urine deposited by the beasts of burden. Its not that bad though, just take a deep breath and walk around. The path winds past hundred foot walls to one side with hundred foot drop-offs on the other then on through red, mauve and green layers and suddenly you can hear the springs definitely roaring but still over a mile away. A few bends later and the springs come into view and then a fork in the trail, left to the springs and right to Cottonwood Campground.

The springs flow from several spots in the rock wall creating a few streams and waterfalls. The outhouse and picnic tables are near a stream that has undoubtedly been damned by hikers to form small pools in order to cool off in after a long day on the trail. Dustin and I pulled off our socks and boots and slipped our feet into the cool clear water. Soon after we were completely submerged and literally chillin just off the North Kaibab Trail. After a quick lunch we headed back up the trail with 5 miles done and 5 more to go. Shortly after passing back across the bridge we caught a glimpse of a man and woman (mid thirties) hiking in the same direction. The woman was using trekking poles and I was cursing myself for the stupid decision not to bring mine this time. We finally caught up to them at the tunnel and found out that they had started on the South Rim the previous day and lodged at Phantom Ranch. They had intended on making a day hike up the North Kaibab and return to the river but did not fully anticipate how strenuous the hike would become. Fortunately they had made reservations at the Grand Canyon Lodge as a contingency plan and were extremely grateful when we gave them a lift from the trail head to the lodge as another 2 miles separate one from the other.
The hike was 10 miles round trip and, including an hour for a leisurely lunch and soak in the frigid spring water, we took 6 hours from start to finish. We had our Camelbaks full of water and carried Clif Bars and Clif Shot Bloks along with a couple PB&Js for lunch. Dustin drained his 2 liter reservoir but refilled at the tunnel on the way back up. My 3 liter was sufficient for the entire trip. The temperature was in the 60s at the trail head and 80s at the springs. By the time we got back up to the truck the temperature was in the upper 50s. The trail was shaded from the sun for the majority of the day but there was a remarkable temperature difference when we were in full exposure.
Recommendations:
Don't attempt hiking to the springs and back if you are not a seasoned hiker.
Carry a packable poncho or rain jacket just in case.
Bring snacks and water.
Small first aid kit (I used duct tape to prevent a blister this trip)
Enjoy the trail and tread lightly!

North Rim, Grand Canyon

As the multitudes gathered on the South Rim inside Grand Canyon National Park we sat in complete solitude taking in the magnificence of the great chasm at our feet. The rustic bench crafted by park service employees sat just off the Transept Trail and was all ours to enjoy the breathtaking beauty laid out before us. No matter where you view the canyon from it is a bewildering sight to say the least. The views from the south are spectacular but the throngs of tourists, bumper to bumper traffic and shuttle buses moving the hoards from point to point can get on your nerves rather quickly. To see the Grand Canyon sans extreme tourism and at much more appreciated summer temperatures the extra mileage is definately worth getting of the well trodden South Rim paths and venturing to the North.
From Phoenix it is a 5 1/2 hour drive (towing a travel trailer) to Jacob Lake, Arizona. Highway 89 leads north out of Flagstaff cutting through the Navajo Reservation as it rounds the eastern edge of the canyon. After mile upon mile of desolate landscape and the occasional mobile home or Hogan that sparsely populate the remoteness of the reservation suddenly the Vermilion Cliffs rise from the desert floor breaking up a monotone panorama. Turning west on 89A the drive comes to life as you pass over Marble Canyon and take in the Colorado River. Just past the canyon named by Major Powell the exit to Lees Ferry would take you to the white water rafting embarkation capital of the world. On up 89A roadside pit stops could also be made at either Cliff Dwellers, House Rock Valley and a historical marker or two but by this time the horizon dictates a sharp rise into the heavily forested North Rim country. Climbing up from the high desert floor the temperature drops and the windows are finally opened. Jacob Lake Inn was a curiosity stop on our itinerary due to their website proclamation of scrumptious baked goods. No false advertising was found. Cookies and pies are made from scratch daily. Christine picked up an assortment of cookies and I procured a peach pie to take with us for desert later in the evening. Just a few minutes from the Inn south on 67 is Kaibab Camper Village. We had decided upon this particular campground because it is the closest to the North Rim with full hookups for RVs. Although it is still another 45 miles to the park entrance we do enjoy having electric and water when we use the travel trailer. Not a bad campground, very quiet and plenty of shade. A word of caution however, there were a few complaints on their website about vault toilets, the staff even made me aware that the facilities were limited to vault toilets when I checked in. I was sufficiently mentally prepared and replied that I was aware of the situation. I have been to countless national and state parks and scores of them have vault toilets that are environment friendly and nearly as good as the toilet at home. The next morning I was to discover why folks had complained. Their vault toilets are the same port-a-potties found at construction sites across the country. Three feet below lies the, well you know where I'm going with this. If Kaibab Camper Village would update their website and state that they have port-a-potties they might not get any bad reviews. But if they upgraded to real vault toilets they'd have many more happy campers. The first evening we dined on marinated steak and as I sat outside an intrepid hummingbird hovered inches from my face for several seconds checking me out and then just as abruptly moved on. Darkness fell and the sky lit up with a star show reserved only for those that put the metropolis in their rear view mirrors. The night was cool and allowed for sound sleep in the quiet wilderness.
Saturday morning we had a lazy breakfast and coffee then made our way to the Rim. The drive through the worlds largest forest of Ponderosa Pine was reminiscent of driving through parts of Colorado until we approached the remains of the 2006 Warm Fire. Both sides of Highway 67 are still recovering and cast an eerie feeling of total devastation that creeps into your psyche. The scorched remains of towering pines contrast sharply with the white aspens that are infiltrating the forest and adding to the macabreness by creating a solid black and white tapestry. Fortunately the charred woodland gives way to the mixed growth of fir, pine and aspen dotted with meadows, ponds, grazing mule deer and wild turkeys the rest of the way to the park entrance.
We parked near the Grand Canyon Lodge just before 11:00 a.m. on August 15th. To be in Arizona in August and have the truck's outside temperature gauge read 73 degrees was exhilarating and yet another reason to celebrate the North Rim over the South. I don't mean to bash too hard on the south side but it is very heavily touristed and rises from the desert whereas the north side is heavily forested and 2000 feet higher in elevation. At 8800 feet the park is not able to stay open to the public year round due to heavy winter snows. Both Rims are spectacular but are also completely different from one another.
The view of the canyon draws your eyes right through the lobby of the Grand Canyon Lodge as you enter the main doors. Massive windows line the outer wall of the great room that is filled with couches and chairs in order to provide peaceful and unobstructed views for miles and miles of geological splendor. We sat outside on the back porch and drank it all in with our Teva clad feet propped up on the stone ledge. After a while we decided to venture out to a couple of the nearby trails and find a spot to enjoy the picnic lunch that we had prepared back at the campsite. When we left the lodge via the west patio in the back we passed the dining room and thought we'd just pop in see what it had to offer for a future visit. The lunch buffet was 3 types of pasta with 3 sauces to choose from and a nicely appointed salad bar. The tables all shared great canyon views so we decided to restructure our day. Lunch at the lodge and a picnic for dinner back at the trailer. Lunch was $13 each and included the pasta bar, salad bar and beverages. The wait staff was very attentive and obviously very happy to be living and working on the North Rim. Although not quite on the same scale as a pasta lunch in Napoli I would definitely eat there again and not exclusively for the view.
The Transept Trail then led us away from the lodge and towards the campground a mile and a half away. The definition for transept found at www.dictionary.com is "any major transverse part of the body of a church, usually crossing the nave, at right angles, at the entrance to the choir." Very appropriate, for this church is Grand Canyon National Park and the trail hugs the rim offering outrageous views in every direction. We came upon a bench that was vacant, as was the rest of the trail except for a handful of hikers, and sat in silence except for nature's choir of wind through the trees complementing the avian symphony.



Shortly after we drug ourselves away from the most wonderful rest spot on the continent we saw a Goshawk take flight and upon entering the campground a Kaibab Squirrel with its distinctive black body and silver tail scampered past us and up a tree. He was kind enough to sit on a limb and pose for a picture.



The campground is quite nice and we will definitely return for some rim side camping even if it is without hookups. The Bridal Trail also links the lodge and campground but does not follow the edge of the canyon. It is a well maintained path and travels past log cabins that are for rent near the lodge. After a full day at the park we headed back to camp and enjoyed our picnic with some tasty wheat beer and peach pie. The inquisitive hummingbird reappeared and we listed to the aspen quake as the wind rustled through the treetops.
The entirety of Grand Canyon National Park is a spectacular place. Last time I was there was for a solo backpacking trip 2 years ago from the South Rim to the river. This time seeing the canyon was much different. The views from the rims are breathtaking but there is nothing that compares to the view from the river looking up. If you want to see the canyon spend time and explore, don't do a drive-by on the South Rim like millions of others do every year. This trip was with our trailer and still a riveting experience. We'll head back up there again this year that much is for sure. We will be stopping for more desert at Jacob Lake too.

From here all things are possible

After reading in the Sunday paper that this weekend marks the 40th year since the Woodstock Music and Arts Festival I climbed on my trusty Trek road bike and headed out with an eclectic mix of tunes in my IPod to power me through the August heat. Hendrix played then came Carlos and many more representing those 3 days of mayhem in Bethel. Suddenly I realized what would become my mantra. By replacing "fight" with "bike" I began chanting "I will bike to prove I'm right" while jamming to Chevelle. I did say it was an eclectic mix. But what exactly was I going to be right about? Growing up in the '70s I always thought I had been born 10 years too late when I finally learned of the Woodstock festival. I hadn't heard of it while it was happening because I was only 6 at the time but discovering the Who, Hendrix and Alvin Lee was much more appealing in my teens than the chart topping acts of Gary Wright and Elton John w/ Kiki Dee. Last week my wife gave me an Arizona State University cycling jersey for my birthday and after reading the tribute to Woodstock I finally slipped it on and was devastated. It fit more like a maternity garment than a svelte pronouncement of athleticism it was constructed for. Yes she had purchased the correct size, XL. It finally came crashing down on me, like it or not, I am middle aged! So I peddled out of the driveway and steered towards the back roads in the western reaches of the Vally of the Sun. Feeling down trodden the music pulsed through. I could throw in the towel and admit defeat by convincing myself that most people reach the same level of sedentary lifestyle by the time they are closer to 50 than 40. Got the house, 2 cars, travel trailer and 2 grown children living on their own. My wife Christine would also add to the list that near the 58 inch High Def television is a cushion on the couch than has a permanent indentation that could be matched to my ass. No, I really don't have to accept that my maternity jersey is fate. After all, I used to be in great shape. After 23 years in the Navy I ran my final 1.5 mile fitness test in 9:06 at the age of 40. But then came college. I did it backwards, career then college. I entered a second full time federal career and went to ASU full time in the evenings for 4 years rendering a degree in American Studies with a minor in Political Science. As proud as I was of finally graduating from a university I was just as much ashamed of how much weight I had gained while reaching that milestone. I told myself it would be a snap getting back into top form and the pounds will surely fall right back off. Over a year later and I'm cycling around in a spandex maternity blouse. But I don't have to be out of shape. Middle aged and soft is a choice not a right of passage! Enter Chevelle, I will bike to prove I'm right. I am just an average guy that has always had an appreciation for music and the great outdoors. Today I am 5'10", weigh 235 lbs and have a 45" circumference. Yesterday Christine and I drove to the cooler elevations of the high country to watch the Cardinals practice during their training camp at Northern Arizona University. We were amazed by their intensity and athleticism. They nearly won the last Super Bowl and now have that hunger going into this season that will have them fighting for the national title. For me, I will bike, jog, hike, camp and explore relentlessly to prove I'm right. I'll eventually be the svelte guy wearing the loose fitting ASU jersey exploring the back roads of the southwest with memories of the concert I was too young to attend filling my ears. Come along and I'll share my quest for all things adventurous (and yummy) in the glorious Sonoran Desert and beyond.